Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial
A small, peaceful lake beside West Lake, home to the John McCain memorial and the street where pho cuon was born.
- Hanoi
- Included in 4 tours
- Tours from $45
- Updated October 2026
About Truc Bach Lake
Truc Bach Lake is the small, quiet sister of West Lake, separated from it only by the narrow strip of Thanh Nien Road. It is ringed by old apartment blocks, cafés and noodle shops, and on calm evenings the water reflects the lights of the Ngu Xa neighbourhood. For most visitors, though, Truc Bach is known for one story: this is where a young US Navy pilot called John McCain landed in 1967.
History of Truc Bach
Truc Bach was once part of West Lake. In the 17th century a dyke was built across the water so that fish could be raised in the smaller lake, and that dyke later became Thanh Nien Road. The name means “white bamboo”: villagers on the shore made bamboo screens, and in the 18th century the Trinh lords built a palace here that was later turned into a place of confinement for palace women, who wove a fine silk that became known as Truc Bach silk.
The John McCain memorial
On 26 October 1967, during a bombing raid on Hanoi, the A-4 Skyhawk flown by Lieutenant Commander John McCain was hit by a missile. He ejected with broken arms and a broken leg and came down in Truc Bach Lake, where local people pulled him from the water. He spent more than five years as a prisoner of war, many of them in the Hoa Lo prison (the “Hanoi Hilton”), and later became a US senator who worked for reconciliation between Vietnam and the United States.
A stone stele on the lakeside records the capture. Its text was revised in 2015 to correct his service (US Navy, not Air Force), and in 2025 the memorial was renovated and enlarged, with new granite and more space around it. It is believed to be the only public memorial to an American in Vietnam, and visiting US delegations often stop to lay flowers.
Truc Bach is also a food stop: the little island of Ngu Xa on its northern shore is where pho cuon — fresh pho noodle sheets rolled around beef and herbs — was invented. Our jeep city tour, electric scooter tour, Green Sisters tour and e-bike tour all pass the lake.
What to see at Truc Bach Lake
Truc Bach is the smaller, quieter sister of West Lake, separated from it by Thanh Nien Road. Most visitors come for the lakeside John McCain stele, which records where the US Navy pilot came down in 1967 and which was renovated and enlarged in 2025. Pair it with a plate of pho cuon on the little island of Ngu Xa, where the dish was invented, a stroll along Thanh Nien Road at sunset, or a pedal on the swan boats.
Worth it?
Why visit Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial?
- The McCain memorialThe stele marking where John McCain came down on 26 October 1967 — a rare reminder of the war and of reconciliation.
- Quiet lakeside walkSmaller and calmer than West Lake, with a path around much of the shore.
- Birthplace of pho cuonThe Ngu Xa streets are lined with restaurants serving fresh pho rolls.
- Swan boatsPedal boats for a slow, fun half hour on the water.
- Next to the big sightsTran Quoc Pagoda, Quan Thanh Temple and West Lake are all within a few minutes’ walk.
Make the most of it
7 best things to do in Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial
See the John McCain memorial
The stele stands on the lakeside by Thanh Nien Road, on the Truc Bach side. It takes only a few minutes, but read the inscription and the story behind it.
Walk around the lake
A loop of around 2 km on lakeside lanes; 30 minutes at an easy pace, with cafés and benches on the way.
Take a swan boat out
Pedal boats wait on the Thanh Nien Road side. Expect roughly 80,000–150,000 VND per boat per hour — agree the price first and wear the life jacket.
Eat pho cuon on Ngu Xa island
Cross the small bridge to Ngu Xa, Mac Dinh Chi and Nguyen Khac Hieu streets, where almost every shop serves pho cuon and pho chien phong (puffed fried pho). A plate costs about 40,000–90,000 VND.
Look for Ngu Xa’s bronze heritage
Ngu Xa was a bronze-casting village, and Ngu Xa Pagoda holds a huge bronze Amitabha Buddha cast by local craftsmen in the mid-20th century. Visit respectfully; opening times vary.
Cross to Tran Quoc Pagoda and Quan Thanh Temple
Both are 5 minutes’ walk away. Combine them for a 1.5–2 hour West Lake history walk.
Ride past with a guide
Our jeep, electric scooter, Green Sisters and e-bike tours stop at Truc Bach and tell the story of the McCain crash and the Hanoi air war.
Timing
Best time to visit Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial
Locals exercise on the shore; good soft light on the water.
The best time: sunset over West Lake is a short walk away, and the pho cuon shops open for dinner.
Lights reflect on the lake and Ngu Xa’s restaurants are busy until late.
October to April is the most pleasant; summer evenings are hot but lively by the water.
Map & directions
How to get to Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial
- From the Old QuarterAbout 2.5 km; 10 minutes by Grab or taxi (roughly 30,000–60,000 VND by car) or 30 minutes on foot via Hang Dau and Quan Thanh street.
- From Ho Chi Minh MausoleumAbout 1 km, a 15-minute walk north.
- By bicycleFlat and easy; combine with the West Lake loop.
- With usFree Old Quarter hotel pickup on our half-day jeep, scooter and Green Sisters tours, which stop at the lake.
Eat like a local
Where to eat near Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial
- Pho Cuon Hung Ben, 33 Ngu XaOne of the best-known pho cuon shops on Ngu Xa island.
- Pho Cuon Chinh Thang, 7 Mac Dinh ChiOften named as the family who first served pho cuon here; also good pho chien phong.
- Pho Cuon Huong Mai, 25 Ngu XaAnother popular spot on the same strip.
- Banh Tom Ho Tay, 1 Thanh NienWest Lake shrimp fritters, a short walk away.
- Lakeside cafésCoffee, juice and fresh coconut on the Truc Bach shore.
For your camera
Best photo spots at Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial
- The McCain steleShow the stele with the lake behind it; be respectful if a delegation is visiting.
- Swan boats at sunsetColourful boats lined up against the evening sky.
- Ngu Xa bridgeThe small bridge to the island with the lake on both sides.
Local advice
Tips for visiting Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial
Do
- Combine with Tran Quoc Pagoda and Quan Thanh Temple
- Come hungry — Ngu Xa is pho cuon street
- Agree the swan boat price before you board
- Read the memorial text before you take a photo
Don’t
- Climb on the memorial or leave rubbish there
- Stand in the road for photos on busy Thanh Nien Road
- Swim in the lake
- Expect a museum — the memorial is a single stele
Visit with a local
Tours that visit Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial
Hanoi · Electric Scooter
Hanoi Half-Day Electric Scooter City Tour
463+ booked
From $60
$51
per adult
Hanoi · Electric Scooter
Hanoi Half-Day City Tour with Female Riders
876+ booked
From $62
$53
per adult
Hanoi · E-Bike
Hanoi Self-Ride E-Bike City Tour: Lakes, Riverside & Hidden Gems
576+ booked
From $60
$45
per adult
Good to know
Truc Bach Lake & John McCain Memorial: questions & answers
Where is the John McCain memorial in Hanoi?
On the shore of Truc Bach Lake beside Thanh Nien Road, close to Tran Quoc Pagoda, about 2.5 km from the Old Quarter.
What happened to John McCain at Truc Bach Lake?
On 26 October 1967 his A-4 Skyhawk was hit over Hanoi. He ejected, landed in Truc Bach Lake with serious injuries and was pulled out by local people, then held as a prisoner of war until 1973.
Is Truc Bach Lake worth visiting?
Yes, as part of a West Lake visit. The McCain memorial takes a few minutes, and the lakeside and pho cuon restaurants make it a good place for an evening walk and dinner.
Is Truc Bach Lake part of West Lake?
It used to be. A dyke built in the 17th century — today’s Thanh Nien Road — separated Truc Bach from West Lake.
What is pho cuon and where can I eat it?
Fresh pho noodle sheets rolled around stir-fried beef and herbs, dipped in sweet-sour fish sauce. It comes from Ngu Xa, the island on Truc Bach Lake; try Hung Ben or Chinh Thang.
Can you rent swan boats on Truc Bach Lake?
Yes, pedal boats are usually available on the Thanh Nien Road side. Agree the hourly price before you set off.
How do I get to Truc Bach Lake from the Old Quarter?
It is about 2.5 km: 10 minutes by Grab or taxi, or a 30-minute walk along Quan Thanh street.
What is there to do at Truc Bach Lake?
See the lakeside John McCain memorial stele, eat pho cuon (fresh rolled pho) on Ngu Xa island where it was invented, walk Thanh Nien Road at sunset, and relax at the lakeside cafes. Swan pedal-boats are also available on the water.
How is Truc Bach Lake different from West Lake?
Truc Bach is much smaller and quieter, and sits right beside West Lake, separated only by the Thanh Nien Road causeway. It is known for the John McCain stele and for Ngu Xa's pho cuon, while West Lake is the city's large open-water escape with a long cycling loop.
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